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Diversification of Fibers, Enhancing the wool properties

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In Britain, knitwear maker Pringle is looking at the possibility of embracing the concept in an attempt to boost sales. It has been suggested by the Pesticide Action Network (PAN) in Britain that 20,000 lives could be saved each year if organic cotton came to be widely grown, as this would reduce the amount of poisonous chemicals used in agriculture to protect crops. This claim is based on three reports on organic cotton and completed in 2001-2002.

It is argued that by switching to new types of cotton farmers could make savings by not having to buy pesticides and this could not only lead to improved health, but also greater prosperity for the farmers. It is reasoned that by switching to new types of cotton farmers could make savings and in reducing the amount of pesticides there would also be a reduction in the contamination of ground water.

A potentially important development in cotton growing is the introduction of genetically modified plants. This is a development that is almost totally much of controlled by the American chemicals giant Monsanto, but much of the pioneering trials was undertaken in India.

In Australia, the Woolmark Co., which replaced the International Wool Secretariat - IWS - is supporting a three-year plan directed towards developing new businesses around the world. The company is owned by Australian Wool Services, which has over two million shares and now represents something like 36,000 wool growers in that country.

In China, it is establishing a new wool-testing house in Ningbo in collaboration with CIQ and discussions are now at an advanced state to establish an advanced technical centre in Italy. This will concentrate on the development and application of new technologies applied to wool processing.

A new luxury wool fiber, called Optim, is now being promoted through joint ventures. The fiber is seen as having immense possibilities as a blend component for use with cashmere. The luxury Optim development is intended to provide a completely new fiber; wool that is 3 microns finer than the original wool. This research has involved an investment of $10 million and is now a patented process.

It is expected that it may augment existing cashmere by providing a straight fiber that is finer and which provides a silk-like handle. The fiber does not have the crimp normally associated with wool. The first company to take out a license to produce it is King Deer Cashmere Co., Inner Mongolia.

The objective is to blend it with cashmere and so generate new markets. Woolmark is also actively promoting wool for use in various types of active-wear under the name Sportwool, while another project is in weatherproof fabrics that are not only water-resistant, but also breathable. These are being developed as laminated constructions and it is also possible that non-woven’s will he used in conjunction with the new products.

The Australian marketing and developments are a long way farmers of from the attitude of the early days of the International Wool Secretariat that originally attempted to impose a 10000 pure new wool rule to products carrying its mark and it was only years later that it grudgingly made way for blends hut demanding that any additive he less than 50% of the product.

Enhancing the wool properties
It has taken wool producers a considerable time to recognize that, in conjunction with the synthetic - especially polyester - wool may well benefit by offering enhanced properties based on two or more components.

In South Korea, Chell Industries is also aiming at the top end of the wool trade. Its most recent product is marketed as Lansmere 220, being made from an exceptionally fine spun wool yarn of 170s count.

Clearly making such a yarn has an influence on productivity and Chell claims that its latest yarn is selling in the trade at a price of 51,000/kg.

The nature of the fabric is such that will he confined to recognized high quality tailors. Now there is the added stimulus of man-made fiber developments aimed at highly specialized segments of marketing.
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