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History of Traditional Indigo Dyeing and tie and dye techniques

The Marakas from Guinea and Mali who arrived in Makeni in the 1930s showed greater ingenuity than the Madingoes. Later, all tribes became involved including the Temnes, Lim bas, Mendes, Krios, and Fullahs, throughout the country in Kenema, Bo, Pujehun, Kabala, Freetown, etc. Similar or related tie and dye techniques are found throughout West Africa and other parts of Africa.

Usually the young leaves, which are plentiful during the rainy season, are collected, pounded and made into small balls that are then dried and sold to dyers and from which they can obtain the indigo dye solution.

In the Northern Province of the country; i.e., Makeni, Kabala, and their environs, the ecology and climatic conditions are quite conducive for the growth of the gara plant, hence a large concentration of the trade in this area, although the trade has spread to many other areas as well. Gara plant is seasonal, so it is in plentiful supply in the rainy season, between June and October, hence cheaper at this time of the year.

Gara dyeing was regarded as a secret craft shrouded in customs and traditions, practiced mainly by women who were associated with secret societies, and who transmitted their expertise from mother to daughter or close relatives. In the past, gara was used to dye clothes such as special gowns (ronko) for chiefs and warriors, by members of a secret society. The gowns symbolized a high status in the society. The reddish brown coloration was believed to be a protection against evil spirits. Sometimes the technique is taught to friends by the dyers or by traditional elders on payment of a fee in cash or in kind. De pending on the nationality, the fee may range tremendously locals pay less. This is so because the elders believe that the prospective learner may either want to sell the art, spoil it, or become a competitor.