Fabric
Traditional blue jeans fabric is a tightly woven twill construction. Lengthwise yarns are dyed indigo or blue/black and crosswise yarns are white. The yarns have a very hard twist for durability, but this construction feature affects color also. The yarns are twisted so tightly that the indigo dye doesn't always penetrate, leaving the core of the fabric white. As the fabric abrades or wears away during use, the white cotton yarn surface appears, giving denims a lighter or medium blue color.
Contemporary or modern-day jeans are sometimes dyed in the fabric stage. These jeans have colored yarns in both directions and tend to retain their deeper color throughout the life of the garment.
Yarns used in denim may vary in weight from 10 to 14 ounces/square yard of fabric. Normally, jeans with heavier yarns are expected to be slightly more durable. Some manufacturers use a variety of blend combinations, such as nylon reinforcement, as well as heavier yarns to increase durability. A combination of yarn weight, fiber content and finishes/finishing affects durability of the final garment.
Some denims have an extra layer of fabric fused to the inside knee area. The process, which is referred to as vulcanizing, adds reinforcement and durability to the knee area.
A variety of product treatments are available through modern technology. Among these are brushed denims and stretch denims. Brushed denims are napped on the surface for a softer look and feel. The fabrics may also be more flexible after napping.
Stretch denims contribute comfort while bending; "give" for general ease of movement, as well as smoother fit. Stretch fibers, such as spandex or texturized synthetic yarns, give stretch to the fabric.
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